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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

A Shocking Honour

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has made the family completely shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble restaurant achieving such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.